Your correspondents in Morelia

[GeckoS]

We left the condo near Los Muertos in a taxi(150p) to the Central Camionera about 7:20 and arrived in our apartment in Morelia about 12 hrs later with an 1 1/2hr layover in Guadalajara. The owner of the apartment had a bottle of wine at our kitchen table. We were burnt out from the bus ride but the vino and some food we carried on the trip made for a good night's sleep.
Today we walked to the main plaza by the Cathedral.We went through the Cathedral, which is really impressive. My favorite was the pipe organ with 4600 pipes. I shot a movie of a guy playing it. I thought of asking him to play, "An Old Alterboy", but it might not have been appropriate. Then we toured the Convent of San Francisco, which now houses "La Casa de las Artisanias", where all the different handicrafts from the towns surrounding Morelia are displayed, and are for sale. Next we went to a little fonda that served head tacos. We had lengua tacos(6p) that were really good. I have wanted to try them in Vallarta but we were never by a stand selling them at the right time. We went back to the casa had a few beers and then walked to the Mercado de la Revolucion. A lot of good stuff but we aren't cooking much on this trip so we came home empty handed.Went back home for a siesta and to watch some NCAA bb.
After a siesta and a few beers we went back to the main square where there was a concert at the bandstand, another area with the payasos (clowns) with a big crowd and another area with indios doing a kind of tap dance wearing these funny old man masks, astride stick horses, backed with a 3 piece indio band. Over by the Cathedral fireworks were being set up. I asked the techs what time the fire works started.9pm, so we had time to eat. We found the Madrid tapas bar and had a couple copas of Rioja, a paella tapa and a patatas bravas tapa (225p) the tapas were more the size of raciones.Yum, yum. We called for the cuenta before we were done, finished and rushed back for the fireworks. The city had closed down the main street in Morelia for four or five blocks in front of the Cathedral for the lighting ceremony.
The street was packed, flat screens were placed along the fence surrounding the Cathedral, showing a presentation for the lighting.Classical music was blasting from the PA and the fireworks started, followed by the Cathedral slowly being lighted up.We were being showered by scraps of the fireworks falling on us.What a show! This happens every Saturday night. We headed back to the apartment where I had a cigar and a few libations and listened to the neighborhood dogs bark at the full moon. That was a pretty good day. Buena noche.

[mizzoujack]

It's a whole different world up there in the mountains above PV in Guad...you have to appreciate city life. The architecture is awesome. I was amazed at the number of Chinese buffet restaurants in the downtown area...and they all seemed to be doing pretty good business. Mexico is such a land of contrasts

[focsle]

Sounds like you guys are having a nice trip, thanks for the report. You two sure do get to have a lot of fun!! Guess we're envious. Have the best fun on your adventure.


Although this was a little creepy. I have a touch of coulrophobia, go figure.

with the payasos

[GeckoS]

Yea, those clowns make me paranoid. I wish my Spanish was better, because I'm missing so much of their wicked sense of humor. We tried a little Chinese restaurant today. It was like a food cart but it was inside. There was a choice of about eight dishes and each one was 14 pesos. It was very good. We were both stuffed for about 56p. We just walked by a Japanese buffet that we want to try. We have read reviews but we keep wandering into places that are good. Today the city closed the main road in front of the Cathedral and opened it to bicycles, tricycles, scooters and we even saw one kid with an electric car. Traffic cops would direct traffic on cross streets but human power had the right of way. I like this city.

[GeckoS]

Rick, I should have posted this in the Trip reports section. Lo siento. Can you move it. Gracias.

Brenda has been running me ragged. I usually hang out while she is beating herself up exercising. It is worth it, though.There is so much to see and do here. We have been touring all the 16th century buildings. My favorite was the Conservatoria de Musica. The oldest conservatory in the "New World". The percussionists were practicing. I shot a video of a beautiful courtyard with a live marimba soundtrack. You will have to take my word for it since someone forgot the usb cord. The towns surrounding Morelia each have one or two craft specialties. We went to Santa Clara del Cobre. As the name implies, copper goods are their speciality. We bought three bathroom sinks of beaten copper. So, two bathroom remodels are in my future. WORK!! We are off to check out the Japanese buffet, then a giant Salsa lesson in Plaza Morelos at 6PM and the start of the Jazz festival in The Casa de Cultura at 10:30. Maybe I can get even with Brenda by keeping her up past her bed time. Hasta luego.

[Gloria_]

When I am eating cake tonight, I will be thinking of you, getting a choice of chinese/japanese options. As will Claudia.

Keep up the good work!

[donnadaf]

Hmm, I thought I posted this yesterday but it's not showing up so I must have hit the wrong button (and forgive if this is indeed a repeat...)

Really enjoying your posts from Morelia...

When I read about the guys in the funny masks in Morelia it jogged a memory. Last year, Mexico was the featured country at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival. These "Chinelos" from MOrelia were one of the participating groups. I'm a bit fuzzy on all the details but thought you'd be interested in what I can remember about them. During the colonial era, the Spanish aristocrats would not allow the locals to participate in their fancy celebrations. So the locals created their own tradition to mock them. The big pointy chins on their giant head masks were intended to represent the Spaniards. They would play raucous "music" -- lots of banging involved -- and dance, with intricate and slightly agressive-looking arm movements, outside. In Washington, DC in July, their performances were especially amazing since the temperatures were above 90 degrees and the costumes are made of wool and those giant heads are heavy!

For the past several years, I have been a volunteer host at the nightly parties held for the Smithsonian Festival participants at the hotel where they stay. It goes from about 9 to 2 or 3 am, so not much sleep for two solid, and wonderful, weeks! Last year, traditional Mexican musicians, dancers, and crafts people from all region of Mexico participated. Since they were from different regions, they didn't know each other. On the first few nights, they would jam in their separate groups during the party. But after a while, they started playing and dancing together. And some of us gringos would join in the jamming and the dancing! In previous years, the festival has featured musicians from more than one country -- and after a few days this same blending occurs. Music truly is the universal language!

And as you might imagine, this hosting job is one of the highlights of my year. If you're thinking about a trip to Washington, DC, try to make it during the Smithsonian Folklife Festival -- always the week before and week when July 4 falls.